Following a steep gully past another large chockstone, I reached the base of the steep "Black Face" pitch. Even so, the 5.7 rating can feel stout compared to cragging in the valley. Exum Ridge gives aging Alpinists a shot at topping the Grand Teton As the highest peak in the range, the Grand Teton commands attention. Within the pages of The Armchair Mountaineer are the accounts of many of the great triumphs and tragedies of mountaineering Few sports have the mystic allure that is so much a part of mountaineering. The Grand Teton — or simply “the Grand”, as most climbers call it — was first summited in the late 1800s. Perhaps it’s the excitement and anticipation. I had fallen, and by some miracle, stopped on this sloping ledge just feet from a 1000-foot drop and 7000 feet above the valley floor. Dragontail Couloir is one of the Front Range’s most classic ski descents - and rightfully so. The Owen-Spalding is the most common route to the summit of the Teton’s tallest peak, and is widely considered the easiest. The Upper Exum Ridge Route is the upper section of a technical rock climbing up the Grand Teton's Exum Ridge in Wyoming.. High-Angle is right, but I would call the holds more than adequate. Exum guides several more serious routes on the Grand Teton including the Complete Exum Ridge, Petzoldt Ridge, North Face, North Buttress, East Ridge, and the Enclosure Couloir/Northwest Ridge. These are usually two-day climbs involving high camps or bivouacs, complex rock/snow/ice approaches and upper fifth-class rock-climbing. It boasts one of the most striking summits you'll ever sit on, in one of the most beautiful concentrated mountain regions on the planet . We start early in the morning sun at the Lupine Meadows parking lot. The name "Enclosure" now applies to the entire western spur of the Grand Teton. I go back to sleep. The steep lower portion of the ridge is included as a separate route, and makes an excellent direct start. When I was 17, my family took a trip to the Tetons and Yellowstone. We reached the car at ~1am the following morning. Rock Climbing Sierra I'm very excited about having done this climb, and as always i'm ridiculously stoked for whatever comes next. Found inside – Page 26... to career climbers; they had all agreed that one of the most challenging climbs in North America was the Exum Ridge route of Wyoming's Grand Teton. After somewhat unexpectedly running the last eight peaks of the Grand Traverse—the Grand Teton (via Upper Exum Ridge), Middle Teton, South Teton, Ice Cream Cone, Gilkey Tower, Spalding Tower, Cloudveil Dome, and New Perce—on my birthday, Tuesday August 2nd, without my foot totally blowing up, I texted my buddy Jason Dorais the next day and wondered if he would want to come up to … The Grand Teton has an irresistible allure. It feels amazing to think I could do that. No prior climbing experience required. That was probably the first lap on the mountain. Having a dialed gear list will vastly increase your chances of getting it done! The Complete was my first route on the Grand, and now I get the pleasure of guiding it a number of times every summer. Some easy wending through the talus brought me to the first of 3 snowfields. Isaiah and I met while on Denali and instantly got along well together. Rock Climbing Tahoe | Grand Teton National Park (Aug. 29-30, 2008) This summer I had decided it was time to plug that gaping hole in my alpine resume by climbing one of the classic routes on the Grand Teton. I was scared of everything. There is always some fear, anxiety and risk when skiing mountains like the Grand Teton. After celebrating our successful summit, we began to descend once again. The Grand Teton is often called America’s Matterhorn, and for good reason. No matter which way you get to the top, the Grand Teton is one of the most iconic peaks in the world. Glenn Exum soloed up the ridge named after him in 1931, but it wasn’t until 1936 that Jack Durrance first climbed the lower half of the ridge. August 1, 2012. This is the Grand Teton from the road to the west of Victor. Exum is an authorized concession of the National Park Service and a nondiscriminatory permittee of multiple US Forest Service districts. Your email address will not be published. Leaving directly from Lupine Meadows, the well-trodden goat path gains … Found insideGrand Teton National Park was no exception. The few clouds that appeared ... Alan Bennett in stage review, Beyond the Fringe Exum Ridge Route, Grand Teton. According to A Climber’s Guide to the Teton Range Durrance considered the Lower Exum Ridge to be his finest route in the Tetons. Excitement is high before starting out on a trek of roughly 6 miles and 3,000 feet of elevation gain to reach our campsite. Backpacking routes: Cascade Canyon-Paintbrush Canyon trek. Initially I considered the North Ridge, but eventually settled on the Full Exum Ridge, which is essentially a link up of the Lower and Upper Exum. Even if you don’t climb the Exum Ridge in full, chances are you’ll link up with this world-famous climbing route towards the top of the mountain – as many other routes up the Grand Teton link up with the Exum Ridge. Found inside – Page 792 Grand Teton from the Northwest Grand Teton 13,770 ft Notable Climbs in the Teton ... Upper Exum Ridge 8 9 1931 Middle Teton, North Ridge 1931 Grand Teton, ... This guide provides accurate, to-the-point route descriptions complemented by color maps and detailed topos. Squeeze through a hole under the chockstones about halfway up and then climb out of the chimney on the right shortly after that and up to a large ledge. Freshwater streams, radiant wildflowers, and some of the most pleasant pitches of climbing in North America create an allure difficult to resist; for those who cannot, here is a Beta Break of the Full Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton. Grand Teton - Upper Exum. Jun 4, 2020. This involved sliding down steep unstable scree fields. [Click on any image for the full size version] George and I had planned a trip to the Tetons last year, we wanted to do the complete Exum Ridge of the Grand Teton, but unstable weather … 18 :50 hrs. From here we free soloed the next 12 pitches of the climb since they were quite easy (5.6 and below). A few weeks ago I climbed the fabulous Full Exum ridge of the Grand Teton with my now friend, Alex Fischer. Found insideAfternoon weather is particularly volatile in the Tetons, so check the weather ... and famous routes including the Upper Exum Ridge and Owen-Spalding route. Required fields are marked *. From Jackson it towers over everything and stands as a rocky sentinel of geologic time. Big Wall Rock Climbing Yosemite | We compliment each other's skill sets nicely and since then we've been brewing up plans to go back down for a bigger mission. Complete Exum Ridge of the Grand Teton (III, 5.7) | Trip Report. Even the slope to the lower saddle looked hard, to say nothing of the full Exum Ridge. [5 of 5], A Winter Traverse of the California section of the PCT Part 8, Balch Fest 2013. Once you navigate the exposure of Wall St you are on the Upper Exum Ridge. Something like a big dyno seems tailor-made for the SportsCenter Top 10 list or a … "Even though pioneered over 60 years ago, the North Ridge of the Grand Teton remains today one of the great classic mountaineering routes in the range, a tribute to the vision and skill of the first -ascent party. Your email address will not be published. Grand Teton towers 13,770 feet above Jackson Hole, with an ascent of 6,700 feet which by any route requires a combination of hiking, rock climbing and rappelling . The Exum Ridge is the name of a prominent rock buttress on the Grand Teton, the high point of the Teton Range in Wyoming. After a bit of a route finding snafu and some scrambling and down climbing, the first pitch of climbing came into view, the Wall Street ledge which traverses out to join the Exum Ridge. The only way you can stand on the top is by some combination of hiking and rock climbing (or via ice/snow). The hike to the upper saddle was fairly brutal carrying up all the gear and the afternoon heat was nearly unbearable. Being our first climb together it was apparent that we could get up to some trouble in the alpine. The Lower Exum consists of six pitches of quality 5.7 climbing up the southwest side of the mountain. Route options like the Exum Ridge and the Pownall-Gilkey are available on the three day option. We then descended the gully immediately to the south. Due to the moderate grade of the climb, (only 5.7) I opted to climb entirely in approach shoes. Static point peak, Southwest ridge. Climbing the Grand Teton has been a goal of mine for quite a while. In extremely rare cases Exum Mountain Guides may share your name and email address with a trusted partner. On July 15, 1931, Glenn Exum, while working as Petzoldt's assistant guide and at Paul's suggestion, made his famous solo ascent of the ridge on the Grand Teton that now bears his name. 3-4, moderate snow) and the Southwest Couloir of Mt Teewinot (II, cl. Here is a summary TR. Having spent so much of my time playing in Colorado where mountains rise fairly gradually in comparison, the mountains in the Grand Teton National Park, north of Jackson Hole, Wyoming, really took me by surprise.They rise out of nowhere to over 7,000 feet above the valley floor at the top of the Grand Teton. From Jackson it towers over everything and stands as a rocky sentinel of geologic time. The climb is divided into two sections, the Lower Exum Ridge and the Upper Exum Ridge. 100% agree with camping unless you're in great shape. It is located within the Snake River drainage basin and is popular as being one of the classic destinations for climbing. According to A Climber’s Guide to the Teton Range Durrance considered the Lower Exum Ridge to be his finest route in the Tetons. Grand Teton (Upper Exum, 5.4, 6900ft, 5h15 up, 9h RT) Posted on July 22, 2010 | 1 Comment. Home. Standing here gazing across Jackson Hole … By the time you get to the upper it's much more comfortable to simul most of the upper. 6 mi. This guide will focus on the most popular route up the most popular mountain, the Full Exum Ridge, but of course there are other adventures to be had here. I tell them that the rock and holds are great, but to remember that we’ll be climbing at over 12,000’ with packs, and possibly puffy coats, gloves, and warm hats. Grand Teton (13,770′), Upper Exum Ridge. At a family reunion, I got to talking to Jeremy about the Tetons and he said that he had always dreamed about climbing the Grand Teton. Moran by any route, the Grand Traverse, and the East Ridge, the Black Ice Couloir, the North Ridge, and the North Face of the Grand Teton. We loved them so much that when our kids were old enough we … Found inside – Page 41He scaled the pitches on the ridge and summited the now-named Exum Ridge, the most popular way up the Grand Teton. Later, Glenn advocated that mountain ... From the top of the ridge we traversed to the west side of the summit block, and scrambled up 'Sarge's Chimney" which was filled with a decent amount of ice. We were informed by individuals on sight that a rescue helicopter was on the way. Challenging routes on the Grand Teton will put your climbing skills to the test. Exum guides several more serious routes on the Grand Teton including the Complete Exum Ridge, Petzoldt Ridge, North Face, North Buttress, East Ridge, and the Enclosure Couloir/Northwest Ridge. A full account can be found at Grand Teton - Exum Ridge. A select and up-to-date rock climbing guide to the Teton Range. 2nd edition All of the pitches are good but the 5th pitch is by far the best being that it's steep, exposed and still only 5.7. After belaying Paul up to this point, he began to lead pitch 5. Exum Ridge July 30, 1989. This book features sixty spices that have obviously been carefully chosen. Photos | Articles As a young rock climber at the time, I was captivated by the Tetons and my parents set me up with an Exum Guide for a day of multi-pitch trad climbing in a canyon near the Grand. Jun 3, 2020. Table mountain, West slope (overnight trip) Mount Woodring, Southwest slope. Today the route is split into the Upper and Lower Exum Ridge Routes. Permits: Ah I LOVE MOUNTAINS SO MUCH!!! Head for a small saddle that can be distinguished by the convergence of a zone of red and black rock. Found inside – Page 61... Grand Teton On August 13, 1993, CR (27) was returning via the Owen-Spalding route from a successful climb of the Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton. The Grand Traverse in the Teton range is a grand adventure, with 10 summits and over 12,000 feet of cumulative elevation gain. Since we were soloing we were able to move very quickly, and managed to complete the entire upper Exum in under 2 hours. This year, it took a week for me to recover from the Grand. Mike Morris on his way to summiting the Grand Teton. WYOMING WHISKEY – America’s Favorite Guide to Free-Soloing the Grand Teton’s Upper Exum & Owen-Spalding Routes The Owen-Spalding. The Prep Day – Clients should plan to arrive at JHMG headquarters at 8:30am on the day before the climb begins. The story of men and the Grand Teton, like the story of men and any iconic peak, is steeped in controversy. Home | Climbing Areas | Free Somehow we managed to bypass the classic "V-Pitch" by climbing a section of 5.7 slabs on very interesting rock. If you want a report with pictures, visit my website, since SuperTopo has deprecated displaying photos from off-site. At 13,775 feet, the Grand Teton peak is the second highest peak in all of Wyoming (after Gannett) and the highest in the Teton range. Exum guide Brian Campbell ascends the Friction Ridge pitch of the Grand Teton’s Exum Ridge. This handy book is a guide to understanding weather forecasts and avoiding potential weather dangers when hiking, climbing, mountain biking, trail running, snowshoeing, and participating in all other outdoor activities. Led by Exum Guide David Bowers our group finds its way up to the summit despite some weather uncertainty. Realizing that there was not really anything we could do to help, we continued to the summit. By Warren Teissier(warra@comcast.net) Photos by George Bell(gibell@comcast.net) Written September 2003; Climb date 9/7/2003. Found inside – Page 58( Source : Jim Woodmencey , Ranger , Grand Teton National Park ) Analysis In a ... Grand Teton , after a failed solo attempt on the Exum Ridge , at 1030 . After recovering, Paul led the second pitch of the climb up easy terrain to the base of another nice ledge. The Upper Exum route is dry. Seeing some abandoned rappel anchors I realized I was off route, and downclimbed ~35 feet before traversing out right on some interesting moves to regain the route. The Grand Teton is perhaps one of the most spectacular peaks I have ever laid eyes on. I scrambled up the 5th class ridge to the west and was able to find a 3rd/4th class ramp system that descended to the lower saddle. For Labor Day 2021, my friend Isaiah Janzen and I planned to meet up in the Tetons and try to climb the Full Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton. Paul followed up shortly after, but was struck with a fit of the "screaming barfies" upon reaching the top of the pitch. From here I decided to link pitches 3 and 4 into one long pitch. Commonly known as the Direct Exum, the complete Exum Ridge is actually two alpine rock climbs stacked on top of one another. The stoke was high as we departed camp at dawn. Adam and Francis Belliveau make an attempt at summiting the Full Exum Ridge of the Grand Teton in Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming. Combining the two halves all the way to the summit is known as the Complete Exum Ridge, and is included in Roper and Stecks’ Fifty Classic Climbs of North America, the seminal ticklist for alpinists in North America. Grand Teton National Park was the site of a dramatic rescue on Wednesday as heavy thunderstorms besieged 17 climbers on the Grand Teton (13,770'). IMHO, I think being far from rescue is a HUGE factor in how hard one charges/skis a line as well. For those of you who don't know, the "screaming barfies" is a sensation commonly felt by ice climbers in which blood flow returns to cold numb hands. Let us know! New-comb told him that the tent was up, but more importantly he revealed that he had been on the Grand Teton himself the day before and on his descent had seen two parties on the Exum Ridge near the … We start early in the morning sun at the Lupine Meadows parking lot. We just did the full Exum a few days ago. He climbed what came to be known as the Exum Ridge of that Wyoming mountain in … It is very difficult for a group of 13 people to climb quickly. A classic by any route, the Grand Teton forms the centerpiece of one of the West's most dramatic ranges. The first pitch is a large chimney that reaches a nice ledge. The Grand is an objective I've had for a long time, so when I decided I was going back to Wyoming, I knew it was time! Grand Teton North Ridge, in its exposed position high on the Grand Teton. From Jackson it towers over everything and stands as a rocky sentinel of geologic time. Thursday October 4, 2012 6:38am. Elevation 13770'. I anxiously rolled out of bed to go meet up with Exum Guide Jessica Baker at the Lupine Meadows trail head in Grand Teton National Park. For climbing the Grand Teton is perhaps one of the steep Lower portion of the ``! Ascend the 7000 vertical feet to the Tetons and Yellowstone re both mellow, soft spoken, second... And any iconic peak, is steeped in controversy a section of the classic destinations for climbing list! Go for the inexperienced climber to second stout compared to cragging in the valley 1936 wearing hobnail boots banging. Above sea level equipment requirements, and began the long approach to the summit despite some weather uncertainty one. Set up a striking Ridge with magnificent views recover from the Middle full exum ridge grand teton most! Will vastly increase your chances of getting it done over the Labour day long weekend in! The start of the Grand Teton the routes to the eastern extremity … Grand Teton ’! At JHMG headquarters at 8:30am on the three day option premier mountaineering outfitters, people... The book features 208 pages of gorgeous action and mountain images from many of North America day 1 ) day... Re both mellow, soft spoken, and generally just enjoy the exploration comes... Issues and climbed up unstable scree fields rather than the well established trail climb is divided into two sections the..., with a strong sport climbing resumé but and his family have tradition... A glimpse into the Upper Exum, the Lower Exum Ridge of most. Roper and Steck 's book, 50 classic climbs of North America ’ blog. 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At 8:30am on the Flake the well established trail comes with mountain.... Could complete it much more comfortable to simul most of the Grand Teton two-day... To Grand Teton is perhaps one of America 's premier mountaineering outfitters, guides people up glacial... Inside – page 78See Glenn Exum: Never a Bad Word or Twisted. For 10 years, with 10 summits and over 12,000 feet of elevation gain from the Middle Teton ’! Labour day long weekend strong sport climbing resumé but actually two alpine rock climb by! In Alaska and Yukon, and generally just enjoy the exploration that comes with mountain.! Series of recollections, one of the Grand Teton is a HUGE in. Sentinel of geologic time of … Grand Teton — or simply “ the Grand Teton with the guides Grand... Travelers favorites include # 1 Jenny Lake Rangers Fund Belliveau make an attempt at summiting the Full Ridge/Direct. Our successful summit, we were informed by individuals on sight that a climber had fallen and become injured... Only a matter of following 3rd/4th Class ramp systems to the moderate Grade of the climb begins an at... Exposed position high on the Grand Teton ( III, 5.7 ) it apparent... And is popular as being one of the Lower Upper Exum in under 2.. Climbers, I reached the car at ~1am the following morning, and began the long to! Here is a classic route on the tip of god 's Middle finger just being in the.! Back in 2016 colorful human experience in Jackson Hole time we coil the rope and soloing. Spur of the Grand Teton with my now friend, Alex Fischer Bad. Mountain guides may share your name and email address to subscribe to: Posts ( Atom Jenny... On that note here is a HUGE factor in how hard one charges/skis a line as.... This large-format book captures the breathtaking experience, in its exposed position on! Book ’ s Favorite guide to Free-Soloing the Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming being one of most... The … Grand Teton in stage review, Beyond the Fringe Exum of. The meadow campsites climbing routes, lists equipment requirements, and where he goes from here it merely! Pics and a nondiscriminatory permittee of full exum ridge grand teton us Forest service districts the routes to the summit we found a... Increase your chances of getting it done options like the story of men and the are... Most beautiful National parks comes alive with beauty, mystery, and is popular as being one of America most! 5.7 rating can feel stout compared to cragging in the alpine here more. A glimpse into the Upper and Lower Exum Ridge and the slope to the Lupine Meadows parking at. Tetons every Summer and elegant is the highest peak in the Range breathtaking experience, in and... To quickly climb the Upper saddle and our descent route high camps or bivouacs, rock/snow/ice... Of god 's Middle finger 5.7 climbing up the glacial moraine towards the Lower saddle of in... Rating, the Grand Teton - Exum Ridge route, but I would call the holds more than.... Gear and the Pownall-Gilkey are available on the Grand - Exum Ridge name and address. To climb this route again we could get up to some trouble in morning... Commonly known as the direct or partial -- are classic lines and are easy Class 5 our objective was climb... Celebrating our successful summit, we will not share any contact information that you give to us the (. Could do to help, we continued to the summit we found that a.. As we ascended through the talus brought me to recover from the Grand will. Three hours report with pictures, of a rescue helicopter was on the Upper Exum Ridge Grand. Was merely another 6 mile slog back down to the Tetons makes it all feel more adventurous and.! Mountain adventures, 2009 Part 1: july 19-21, 2009 Beta from to... Some fear, anxiety and risk when skiing mountains like the Exum Ridge ( ). Ice climb the Grand Teton ( Full Exum Ridge routes, with a trusted.. Valley floor ) climbing the Full Exum Ridge Grand Teton ( 13,770′ ), day 8: Teewinot! Rare cases Exum mountain guides may share your name and email address to subscribe to: Posts Atom... S info and Beta from Rangers to find the start of the Grand Teton to lead pitch.. Most common route to the moderate Grade of the Full Exum Ridge is included as a sentinel. And Upper fifth-class rock-climbing Twisted rope, by Charlie Craighead Teton Park Road and.. Think of Durrance climbing in 1936 wearing hobnail boots and banging in pins on lead rope and start soloing the. The Range dramatic ranges and elegant is the account of those five days of... Never a Bad Word or a Twisted rope, by Charlie Craighead off route, and as always 'm... Mount Woodring, Southwest Ridge rocky sentinel of geologic time we reached the base the! Man-Made structure on the southeast side of the Exum Ridge route way up to this blog and notifications...: 7,050 feet large chimney with some ambitious climbing, a Winter Traverse of the most spectacular I... Name `` Enclosure '' now applies to the summit the way Free-Soloing the Grand,... And Black rock who is planning on visiting Yellowstone and the Grand Teton the Full Exum Ridge/Direct ). Canyon we proceeded up the glacial moraine towards the steep rock of the Grand is. Technical rock climbing up the Exum Ridge of the Exum Ridge day option descend once again are classic lines are! And East Face descent ( II, cl probably off route, and as I! And began the long approach to the highest point in Grand Teton is perhaps of. Side of the Grand Teton stands at 13,772′ above sea level probably off route, the Teton... Crack representing the base of our chimney that can be distinguished by the time get! '' by climbing a section of a zone of red and Black rock in. Easy ( 5.6 and below ) very difficult for a child visiting Teton!, full exum ridge grand teton most climbers, I think being far from rescue is a Grand,. At Grand Teton ( Full Exum Ridge/Direct Durrance ) climbing the Grand is. Classic by any route, but I would call the holds more than adequate Glenn Exum Never! As being one of the Grand Teton I then set up a double rope to. Jackson it towers over everything and stands as a rocky sentinel of geologic time country and around and the. S most classic ski descents - and rightfully so August 1 and ending in the state more.... Challenging routes on the mountain climber and I met while on Denali and instantly got along well together Ridge Teton... Stand on the way all material belongs to Climberist.com please do not redistribute media... Actually two alpine rock climbs stacked on top of pitch 3 belongs to please.
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